Thursday, October 17, 2013

Fleece Jacket -- Sewing

Ralvery's group Sew Obsessed had a SAL for a jacket or coast. Decided to try it. I used the pattern Simply 1540. I followed B without the ruffle.  Inexpensive fleece so I could test it, a wearable muslin. The closeup of the collar is the as close to the true color I could get.

I realized the fleece I used wasn't a stretch type fleece.  There was no give. But that made it more like a muslin anyway and gave me a good fitting.  

Below is a close up of the collar. I used interfacing (of course) and it was interesting sewing this on.  The shoulders ended up a drop sleeve because I have narrow shoulders. I need to remember that. But then the sleeves fit in length better because my arms are a little bit long. I have to remember those two things.

Below is a motion snap shot. LOL. I had my timer on and it was about to go off, so I turned my phone this way. I thought it turned out pretty good and added it. 

Below is a picture of it on me. This is a little dark, the colors a little lighter. But you can see it on me.  As you can tell I still need to work on set in sleeves.  
Below is a picture on my dress form.  I added this picture so I could see how I compare to my dress form and it's a very close match in size. This also shows more detail because of the bright lights I used to get this picture. Faded out the brown, but still looks good. 

Below is a close up of the back. I made the front and back first to see if it would fit and how it looked.  So this was before I added color, sleeves, front facing, etc. I just had the back and front pieces (with pockets) sewn together.  I am very proud of how I did this back. The tab has interfacing.  

Below is a close up of the pocket and seams.  This, of course, is right after I sewed on the pockets.  It looks like 2 seams, but is really 1 seam sewn onto the jacket. The first was to sew down the fold on the inside.  The coat is an A-Line type, so the pocket is straight against the front seam.  

All in all, this is a pretty good pattern.

Some changes that need to be made.

My pieces didn't all come out the same length.  I'm guessing operator error (me). But it is longer then I wanted so I was going to trim it anyway.

The back under/inside facing didn't line up like it said it should.  So the entire facing was shorter then the rest of the coat.  Since the facing used interfacing, and the back inside facing and interfacing were the same size, I'm saying it's the pattern piece.  So anyone doing this one, please double check that. It still could have been me, but maybe not.  Since I trimmed it down, I just trimmed it to that and it worked out fine.  

There is no lining pattern for this jacket. So the seams are exposed. Some of the styles call for a second stitch down, to hold down the seam.  I read to do a zig-zag on fleece, so I did that. Then I trimmed my seams down and did an overcast stitch. It looks almost serged. I wanted them to look nicer then I had sewn and not to fray. I did not do the sleeve seams since no one will see them. My sleeve seams have frayed a bit, but not much.  It might be an idea, depending on how you sew.

This is a fleece only pattern.  I don't know if you could make it out of other material (like wool), but after making a fleece jacket, maybe if you're good enough.

This pattern is true to size.  It's not a baggy jacket. If you need or want more wiggle room, go up a size. Then make the front and back and add more seam allowance if you want to. I can move in it. I drive in it. I sat and moved in church for two hours in it.  So it is possible to wear this around.

I would suggest sewing the facing to the inside of the jacket. My hem part would flip open on me. I tacked that down in the hem area, but even the front part seems to want to flip on me. I'm thinking I'm going to do little tacks on there to keep it down, maybe in the seam area.

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